Are you a Dahlia debutante growing Dahlias for the first time this year?  Have you grown them before but never tried taking cuttings? Have you got a plant with lots of bushy growth?

If so you could double, triple or even quadruple the number of flowers by taking cuttings.

Each cutting will grow into a strong plant, flowering this season. Each of these, if overwintered correctly, will produce further stems the following spring, for yet more cuttings. The Dahlia really is a gardener’s thrifty plant of choice.

Dahlias root well from cuttings and even beginner gardeners should give it a go. The very first cuttings I ever made were from Dahlias and I admit to being mystified at the magic of propagation but delighted when it worked.

You can read the step by step guide below for full information including how long the cutting will take to root and the optional use of hormone rooting powder.

You can also watch this short video clip that I posted on Youtube.  It shows you just how easy it is.  Cuttings take just minutes and this approach has always worked for me.

If you want to know more about growing Dahlias please take a look at my Dahlias for debutantes article which gives information on varieties to try, how to grow and how to look after them over the winter.


Step by step guide to taking Dahlia cuttings

Dahlia cutting

Dahlia shoot, just cut from parent plant

  1. When stems reach 7 to 8 cm long, they should make good cuttings. Take a good look at the stems coming from your tuber and choose which stems to cut.  You may need to push the compost aside so you can see where the stems emerge from the tubur. Stems that can be severed from the parent with a small amount of tuber intact are the first to try. This is because the growth hormones needed for good root development are concentrated in the tuber.
  2. Take a sharp knife. This can be a gardener’s knife but a kitchen knife will also do. Ideally the knife should be clean and some growers advocate sterilisation through a flame. Hold the chosen stem and push the knife into the tuber and under the stem to cut it away.
  3. If some of the light brown woody tuber comes with the stem, you have a perfect specimen. If not, don’t worry as the stem can still be used but you will need to cut the stem under a leaf node as shown in the first picture below.  A leaf node is simple to spot as there is a swelling on the stem from which the leaves emerge. It should root anyway as there is also a concentration of growth hormones in the leaf node.  If you want to you could dip the cut stem into some hormone rotting power or gel but this is not essential.
  4. Carefully tear or cut away any lower leaves on the stem and cut the top leaves in half to reduce the amount of surface area through which moisture can be loss.
  5. Fill a pot with compost. Place a pencil into the compost at the edge of the pot to make a hole and put the stem in, gently firming the soil around it. Three cuttings can usually be fitted around the edge of a 9cm pot.
  6. Water the cuttings. They usually root without covering but if you have a propagator (plastic tray with or without bottom heat and with a clear plastic lid) you could use this. You could also try putting clear a plastic bag over the pot, held in place with a rubber band. Both methods reduce the moisture loss from the cutting but have the potential for the cutting to rot if the atmosphere is overly damp – so do not overwater.
  7. Cuttings will take 2-4 weeks to develop roots. Resist the temptation to pull the stem to see if it has taken. You will know when it has worked as the stem will begin to grow new leaves. Alternatively, if you have some, use the see-through pots used by orchid growers, or even the plastic cups from children’s parties (with drainage holes punctured in the bottom) as you can see the roots growing without disturbance.